54 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {food coloring} It’s been 44 years since Flea Street Cafe opened in Menlo Park, but despite its long-running legacy, the menu still feels modern and fresh. That’s thanks to Bryan Thuerk, the restaurant’s head chef and general manager of five years. He prefers to let his hyper-seasonal dishes take the spotlight. “I’m not an ego-driven person,” says the twenty-something chef. “Jesse built this place and I’m here to support the original vision. I don’t want to ruin anyone’s legacy.” Jesse, of course, is culinary innovator and self-taught chef Jesse Cool. In 1980, she launched Flea Street with a focus on local, organic ingredients that highlight the best produce, seafood and meats the Golden State has to offer, an innovative concept back then. “It’s hard to classify, but California cuisine is very ingredient-driven,” says Bryan. “It’s our rustic style that highlights the best of those California ingredients and their flavors.” A bit of a misfit growing up, Bryan went to culinary school in hopes of making something of his life after having a hard time in high school. “I’ve always loved cooking and I remembered enjoying a culinary camp I went to as a kid. That gave me the idea to go to culinary school,” Bryan recalls. “Using my hands to create something really sparked something in me. I found happiness in feeding people and unlocking memories for them.” Bryan’s first introduction to Flea Street almost didn’t happen. His father was a longtime fan of the restaurant and invited his son there for a family birthday dinner.
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