Punch Magazine - March 2024

PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM 65 many lessons. He recalls one piece of advice passed down by his dad: “If you don’t throw away your food from yesterday, then you’re going to throw away your guests,” Allen recites. “Everything needs to be fresh!” Quality ingredients are also key to the restaurant today. “Our oregano and all the spices come from Greece,” he notes, their octopus pulled from the azure waters of the Mediterranean Sea. Many of Barbayani’s wines—including the smooth and acidic Gavalas Santorini and Meden Agan (reminiscent of pinot noir, but richer)—came from lush vineyards cultivated in the cradle of Western civilization. “We made a couple deals with the wineries,” Allen notes. “I was in Greece just a month ago.” Those who’d prefer cocktails with a Greek twist should order the Mykanos Lemontini or Apollo Cooler, both spiked with anise-flavored ouzo. Those seeking distinctive dishes will welcome the octopus on a bed of baby arugula with roasted bell peppers, drizzled in red wine vinaigrette. Or the wild-caught fumée salmon marinated in Greek-style beet and pesto sauces. A true standout is the lavraki, a whole sea bass. The initial salty lemony zing of the crispy skin gives way to the subtle flavor of fresh fish—appreciated all the

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