66 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM aegean eats barbayanitaverna.com {food coloring} more as diners take their time flaking delicate forkfuls off the bones. You’ll also find the traditional taverna staples like plevrakia (lamb riblets in a garlic and lemon vinaigrette), beef souvlaki with tzatziki yogurt sauce and spanakopita (briny feta and spinach layered between crispy phyllo sheets). Not to mention classic desserts like flaky baklava and creamy galaktoboureko with semolina custard. Traditional Greek tavernas aren’t just eateries, but places brimming with music and dancing. “We’re going to start live music every Monday,” promises Allen, who wants to bring the sounds of bouzouki to the streets of downtown. “I want to bring some life here!” Back in the present, Allen watches diners devour his dishes. “Always, my dad would say, ‘I’m not your boss. Your guest is your boss. I’m not paying your salary. They are paying your salary.’” He gives a satisfied nod. “When I see my plates empty, it gives me happiness.”
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