68 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {food coloring} you won’t find is any industrialsized kitchen machinery. Joey insists on making everything by hand. “When I see a cannoli that’s been made by a machine, I instantly know,” he declares. “But when I see handmade cannolis, they look like little butterflies to me. I can tell.” Originally started in 1968 by Romolo, his now 91-year-old Sicilian grandfather, Joey took over the business 15 years ago after what he affectionately calls a good deal of guilt-tripping from his 86-year-old grandmother, Angela. “My ‘Nonna’ is a beautiful, thoughtful woman and a good listener, but she also has a magic about her,” he claims. “She says when I was a baby, she used to rub mascarpone and rum on my gums to calm me down and then do a spell on me that would draw For those in the know, Romolo’s Cannoli in San Mateo is the go-to spot for the crispy, creamy classic. Owner Joseph (Joey) Romolo Cappello’s little shop is known for its authentic Italian treats filled with everything from the classic vanilla cream topped with pistachios, nuts or cherries to seasonal flavors like limoncello, pumpkin, hazelnut and tiramisu. But what words by ELAINE WU • photography by PAULETTE PHLIPOT DESSERT sweet tradition ABOVE: Romolo's Cannoli owner Joey Cappello with general manager Erin Coady.
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