punch-nov23

82 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM labor-intensive and finicky, requiring exact combinations of time and temperature. On top of that, Pavri has high standards. She refuses to use egg whites that come in cartons, which means hours of cracking shells and separating out yolks by hand. She carefully tests all her flavors, ensuring the vanilla doesn’t taste too medicinal and the pumpkin spice isn’t too cloying. Back when she was developing recipes in her home kitchen, her three children were her tastetesters…and they were honest. “I remember going into my daughter’s bedroom and saying, ‘I just made these… They taste pretty bad, right?’” Pavri recalls of an early lavender test. “She’s like, ‘Yeah, it tastes awful, Mom.’” Fortunately, Pavri gets excited by technical challenges. Take chocolate, which doesn’t react well with meringue. She had to come up with a special incorporation technique. It worked! Right now, her team is developing a dairy-free strawberry milkshake flavor. Unfazed by setbacks like shortages of good passionfruit or delayed deliveries of superfine sugar, Pavri takes all in stride. (Even if she has to pulverize regular sugar with a coffee grinder.) “Everything with a meringue has to be just so,” Pavri explains. “It’s such a clean palate that flavor is going to burst through. The balance has to be impeccable.” It’s that exquisitely balanced flavor, and the simplicity of the meringue itself, that has allowed Pavri to earn the trust of the health-conscious-yet-sweettoothed retailers and customers {food coloring}

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